Conquering the Cypriot Feast
For the past four weeks, my classmates and I have been here in Cyprus working toward a common goal: to film a documentary about the Cypriot mezé. The mezé, a very long and involved meal consisting of at least a dozen courses, is possibly one of the single most authentic Cypriot experiences any visitor could have; and in my opinion, every visitor to the island should try it at least once if they wish to say they have truly experienced Cyprus at all. Nothing sticks out in my memory of the past month more than all the delicious foods, and furthermore, the simple joy the Cypriots share in dining with friends and family, something that has not been lost in their culture despite the changing of the times.
Along the way of making our film, we were given the unique opportunity to visit four different local Cypriot food artists (as I like to call them), each of which specialized in one particular type of traditional Cypriot food that appears in the mezé. The first stop was at the home of a traditional bread baker, who explained how love and patience is key to delicious bread. The second stop was at the home of a halloumi cheese maker, who showed us how family and tradition have carried her craft through the decades and made a halloumi a staple of the Cypriot diet. The third was a talented confectioner who shared the secrets of baklava and other delicious Cypriot desserts, passed down from his father and enjoyed by many. And last but not least we visited a butcher to see how kleftico was prepared and to learn why the business of meat is a dyeing art.
When it finally came time to share a mezé together as a class, it was obvious we would have to find a very traditional restaurant which would hold nothing back in giving us the full experience. We did indeed find a very simple, authentic place here in Nicosia with very kind owners (kind enough to humor our American awkwardness and reluctance in some cases toward the unusual foods we were offered). To my memory, our entire meal lasted over three hours and had, by my count, a whopping 22 courses:
Greek salad, fresh bread, olives, carrot salad, beets, Russian salad, fried halloumi, whole mushrooms, potatoes, Tzatziki dip, Tahini dip, spinach with egg, pilaf, pork, chicken, halloumi ravioli, souvlaki, kleftico, liver, stuffed peppers, snails, and finally… dessert pastry and Cypriot coffee.
Needless to say, we were stuffed. I am proud to say that I tried every single dish that came to the table, and the liver was the only one I can honestly say I did not care to have again (never really have liked the stuff). Yes, I tried the snails, and no, I didn’t find them repulsive. In fact, I ate three, and I could see myself eating them again if given the opportunity. The texture of course takes a little getting used to, but they tasted mild and were prepared by an experienced Cypriot cook. I had no complaints whatsoever, …except maybe that I had no room left in my belly to go back for seconds of other dishes! 🙂
Of all things I did and all the new things I tried on this month long journey, conquering the mezé required the most personal courage (pulling a snail from its shell and popping it into your mouth for the first time takes some will power for sure, especially after watching the cringes and gags from my classmates as they were passed around the table!). But I can also honestly say it was also the most satisfying experience of all when it was all said and done. I loved every minute of it and would do it all again in heart beat. Thankfully, the whole evening was caught on film, and it too will be a part of our documentary, as we ourselves have become part of the story of the mezé. We may return to America soon, but this memory will definitely travel back with me, and hopefully last a lifetime. I will never remember Cyprus without a rumble in the tummy, and a longing for that long night at the dinner table!